A BWO Dry- Size 24 (The Way It Should Be)

 "Something to think about: If you fish the wrong fly long and hard enough, it will sooner or later become the right fly". - John Gierach

It pays to stop fishing and start observing.  I was a very young man fishing the evening rise on the Squannacook River around Townsend Ma. Trout were rising EVERYWHERE and I got lucky and caught a few BUT I became utterly flummoxed by the behavior of those browns. A cahill type mayfly would come drifting downstream and go totally unmolested by the trout.  Then suddenly a trout would rise where no mayfly existed!!!  "What the F" is this about." Time to figure this out and just observe what was going on. (I was the only one on that section of the river so I knew I wouldn't be giving up my spot)!!

It became obvious that it was a food source (insect) that they were after but I just couldn't see it. So I went a few yards upstream with a wet Cahill and began to swing it over the "rises". All hell broke loose that night and this became my dry fly approach going forward: swing the appropriate wet fly (soft hackle) and when the surface action really takes over switch to a dry.  My dry of choice for freestone evenings has always been a comparadun. It's visible in low light and it wants to float!

Tails You Lose

Check out the fly in the above photo.  It's a size 22 BWO dry tied on a Saber hook, #7051  (very good hooks at a great price).  Notice that there is NO TAIL on this fly and that is because we tie tails to keep the back end of the fly floating. WE DON'T WANT THAT!! We want the fly to mimic the real insect by making it look real: front end poking up through the surface film and the rear end following the front end. Dust this fly up and it will float forever.  That's what I discovered on that Squannacook evening almost 50 years ago.

Saber hook size 20 through 24

Thread - 12/0 brown or olive

Wing - Hareline post wing (medium dun)

Wing Foundation - synthetic dubbing to match wing color.

Ken

Too Beautiful To Discribe

 "We fish for hours to hold a trout for a few seconds" - John Gierach

It's Fall in New England and if you can't be taken aback by the sheer wonder of this landscape there must be something wrong with you. Sure, there's leaves in the water but that situation will drift away in a week or two. Then we will welcome November which in my mind is probably the most underrated flyfishing month in New England.

Do you know what else makes these months special? No biting insects and not many crowds on the water. Yes, the Swift and the Farmie will still have their mobs but places like the Millers, the EB are rounding into form.  The Millers is at 656 cfs, the EB is at 1150 (high but dropping) and the Swift is at 56 cfs. (perfect)  Don't hit the Millers or the EB until they are around 500 cfs.

And don't forget the Ware!!!! Anything below 500 cfs will work.

Leave the Brookies alone

So, I've left the dark side and now believe we should practice not just "catch and release" for brookies but full blown "hands off" on the Swift for this species. Sure, there will be some "by catch" but leave the redds alone!!!!!!!  The Swift, in my not so humble opinion, is an absolute treasure and the best brookie fishery in New England.  Where else can you catch native brookies that exceed 20 inches and enough 15 inchers to where people don't even brag anymore????

If you don't like that then just chase the clonebows.  The DFW loves to stock them!!!

Ken

Fly Rods And Why They Break

 

"If I'm not going to catch anything then I'd rather not catch anything on flies". - Bob Lawless

It's that time of year when the weather is still fishable (much like early April) but it's been months with the same techniques and flies and I needed to shake things up. No, I'm not on the streamer bandwagon because I like small flies and light lines and light rods. So we change up the fly recipes and see what happens.

As I mentioned in the last two blog posts I worked up two flies - The Copper and Grouse and the Partridge and Red. I fished the P & R first through a 50 yard section twice and took 3 brook trout between 6 and 8 inches.  Then I switched over to the Copper and Grouse, fished the same water where I took 2 brookies between 11 and 14 inches.  All this took a bit over 2 hours.

What does all this mean????  Answer = NOTHING!!!  It's just me entertaining myself.  Both flies will work at any time.



Broken Rods Again

Yup, I read AGAIN where another angler broke ANOTHER nymph rod!!! Without a doubt this style of construction has not stood the test of time and we as rod owners practice some careless habits that hastens a rods death and that's why I think it's a good idea to reprint a post from a while ago on this subject.

It was May of 2017 when the end came. The rod broke in mid section while casting a soft hackle on the Bliss Pool. I will say that it was a memorable occasion BECAUSE I was into my 14th year with that 8 foot, 4wt graphite rod and it was the only time a rod of mine broke while in the act of fishing! The rod was built by a club member and I won it in a raffle and its sweet moderate action made it my "go to" Swift River rod or whenever I knew that I would not be casting bead heads and such. ( I leave that task to the stouter rods). I put lots of mileage on my rods, easily more than the average angler, but I am careful with what I do. That's why I'm still fishing 10 year old rods (and catching fish!!)

Operator Error or Material/Design Flaw??

It's almost always operator error and I'm not taking about car doors, trunk lids or ceiling fans but the careless things we do while in waders. (I'll discuss design failure later) Here's a good list:

Candy Cane Rod -

You've seen this and you may be guilty of it too. You are bringing in a trout with your rod held at the high NOON position so that the tip is horribly stressed.  It will break then or 200 casts later and we will blame the rod company but it's really our fault. Now, years ago in the age of bamboo and fiberglass rods were always shorter so netting a trout was much easier. Now we have 10 and 11 foot rods which makes it harder to reach the fish with a net. The result is to Candy Cane the rod. Instead, hold the rod behind you as you extend your net arm so that the rod forms a sloping arc. That way you are fishing a "shorter" rod putting the fish closer to you.

Ultra long rods  can present problems for the short armed, vertically challenged among us.  One solution is to hire a gillie!!!

Death By Beadhead

Before beadheads came around we added weight by wrapping lead wire on the hook shank and then cushioned it with dubbing and wraps of material.  Then we began to see (well, I think so) an increase in breakage especially in the tip section. I knew a saltwater guide whose clients broke four quality loaner rods one season learning to cast clousers!!!  The beadhead fly can hit speeds of 200 mph on the cast! All it needs is to just touch the rod tip and you will have a broken rod either then or later when it finally fails. That's why that special rod of mine lasted so long - no beadheads!!!!

Seating Ferrules 

Make it a habit to check the seating of your ferrules during the day on a river.  A loose ferrule will weaken the wall strength of a graphite or glass rod.  AND DON'T TWIST THEM ON!!! Push together, push apart and that's it. Twisting will also weaken the wall strength and you may have a devil of a time taking the rod apart.

Don't Walk With The Rod Tip Behind You

Two fly fishers were walking along a river, one behind the other. The first one had his rod pointing behind him.  He suddenly stopped walking but the guy behind him didn't and rear ended him breaking the guys rod tip. The rod tip is the most fragile part of the rod and I want to know where it is all of the times. So, rod tips first!!!

Or Material Design Flaws And The Problem With Warranties 

As I said most rod failures are due to operator error but one has to take a long look at the design of many rods, especially the nymph variety. They are stretched out to 10 feet and over 11 feet in some models. They are incredibly light with sensitive tips and if what I see on internet searches is to be believed they have a fairly high failure rate. It appears that they just don't stand up to fly fishing.  Here is my suggestion: If you want a new rod then search the web for everything about it for breakage (those forums are loaded with info.) and if you see more than two complaints about breakage then find another rod company.

So what's wrong with warranties? Actually everything!  Let's say you buy a rod for $800 and it breaks in half on the first day out (this happens, check the web). You send the rod back with $50 and wait for the repair or replacement. In the meantime you are saying things like "$50, that's reasonable".  Did it ever dawn on you that part of that $800 price tag may have been made up by factoring in the cost of the warranty.  Maybe you are paying on it twice! Remember, the rod companies are NOT going to loose money on you!!!

 

Operator Error or Material/Design Flaw??

It's almost always operator error and I'm not taking about car doors, trunk lids or ceiling fans but the careless things we do while in waders. (I'll discuss design failure later) Here's a good list:

 

Or Material Design Flaws And The Problem With Warranties 

As I said most rod failures are due to operator error but one has to take a long look at the design of many rods, especially the nymph variety. They are stretched out to 10 feet and over 11 feet in some models. They are incredibly light with sensitive tips and if what I see on internet searches is to be believed they have a fairly high failure rate. It appears that they just don't stand up to fly fishing.  Here is my suggestion: If you want a new rod then search the web for everything about it for breakage (those forums are loaded with info.) and if you see more than two complaints about breakage then find another rod company.

So what's wrong with warranties? Actually everything!  Let's say you buy a rod for $800 and it breaks in half on the first day out (this happens, check the web). You send the rod back with $50 and wait for the repair or replacement. In the meantime you are saying things like "$50, that's reasonable".  Did it ever dawn on you that part of that $800 price tag may have been made up by factoring in the cost of the warranty.  Maybe you are paying on it twice! Remember, the rod companies are NOT going to loose money on you!!!

I like an honest warranty that covers materials and workmanship only. The fly fishing industry sailed over the Falls when it offered  "no questions asked about the dumb ass way you mishandled the rod" kind of warranty. Maybe we would appreciate the craftsmanship more and take better care of rods if they were not so easily replaced!  

 

Ken

The October Caddis

 

The October Caddis

"Fishing for landlocked salmon is like scale-model Atlantic salmon fishing: all the frustration for a fraction of the price"- John Gierach

"They were all over me." October Caddis that is! This is a true event on autumn trout streams especially on the fertile freestones that we like to fish like the Millers. This orange/brownish caddis can fill the air but it can also disappoint if you don't know it's life cycle. This insect is not going to rise through the water column followed by slashing trout most of the time. It prefers to hatch on the shore and then fly away. Maybe that's why the Partridge and Orange is so good around now.

Are there dry fly opportunities with this insect? Yes, but it will come with the end of the mating swarm near evening when most fly guys decide to pack it up. The above fly works because it looks like a spent insect and incorporates the materials to achieve that look.

This is really a freestone fly and is not common on tailwaters. The Millers and the Ware are best for this fly.

Hook - size 14 standard dry

Body - orange/brown rabbit dubbing

Wing - clump of orange/brown hen hackle fibers (an underwing of CDC will work to float the fly longer

Hackle - brown grizzly size 14-16

Head - brown rabbit dubbing

One can fish this fly dry and then wet. It works both ways. 

Back At It

 

"I'm not against golf, since I cannot but suspect it keeps armies of the unworthy from discovering trout".  - Paul O'Neil

It has been a strange Summer for me on the trout fishing stage. First, I did very little trout fishing because I just grew very tired of playing with clonebows. One gets the feeling that most bows stocked in May are dead by Labor Day.  I fish for brook trout in the Swift because they are not the cookie cutter brookies that the DFW stock in other waters but the REAL THING: stream born brook trout!!

I love brown trout because they can tolerate less than pristine environments and provide us with with that summer evening surface activity that a freestone fly fisher dreams about.  They get "wild" by early Summer and are a challenge on early Fall evenings!!!!

Now for a recap of this Summer. Caught some trout, caught some stripers, caught some blues and managed to break my right ankle (medial malleoulus) which will put me on the IR for the rest of the season.  

Good time to brush up on my birding!!!

Ken